STRG6353 PDF

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My other E85 is not exhibiting any symptoms as yet. As has already been said, the is a conventional package, not surface mount. So the thermal resistance of the package must be quite a bit higher than a TO with a metal tab, and I doubt if the moulded plastic surface makes very good contact with the heat sink.

There was no thermal pad and no sign of any thermal compound. Provided they are used within their ratings and safe operating area they should continue to work.

But exceed their ratings or safe operating area and they can fail in a fraction of a second, usually by going short circuit. They have continued to work, but gradually less reliably. The symptoms I was getting were consistent with a regulator current limit gradually getting lower until it was being tripped by normal peak currents during power up and DVD burning. Perhaps impurities are migrating within the devices. Anyway, be that as it may, I played safe by using a very thin smear of thermal compound when I replaced the The 5 pins are single in line as they come out of the package, but pins 2 and 4 are preformed to make a DIL arrangement.

I used a solder sucker once on each pin, moved the device gently, moved a couple of pins gently, and it came out cleanly. Remove the screw securing the to the heat sink. You can either cut them short and suck the pins out with the solder, or cut them long and pull them out from the component side. Use a temperature controlled iron if you can. Clean the tip of the bit by applying a little solder and wiping the bit on a damp sponge.

Prime the solder sucker and hold the tip of the sucker close to the first pin. Then apply the tip of the soldering iron bit to the solder fillet, rather than the pin or the pad. As soon as the solder fillet melts it should almost immediately , pull the bit away, move the sucker tip against or over the pin and trigger the sucker, all in one quick smooth move. If you time it right, the sucker should remove almost all the solder and possibly the pin, leaving a clean undamaged pad.

If the pin is still in the hole there will probably be a tiny bridge of solder between the pin and the edge of the hole. Repeat for the other pins. Apply just enough heat to free any pins that are still in the holes in turn and pull them out using fine pliers. Check there are no solder splashes or fine strings of solder between the pads.

Be careful not to apply too much heat with the soldering iron, or too much force when trying to remove the pins, or you might lift the pads from the PCB. There are some surface mount devices on adjoining tracks quite close to some of the pads.

In these cases apply the bit to the solder fillet on the side of the pin furthest from the surface mount device. Fit the new and screw it to the heat sink. Then solder each pin in turn. Apply the bit so the tip is touching the pad and the side is touching the pin. At the same time feed some solder onto the bit so it runs onto the pin and the pad. As soon as the solder has formed a conical fillet right round the pin, remove the solder and the iron and let the joint cool.

The solder fillet should have a shiny appearance. Finally check there are no solder splashes or fine strings of solder between the pads. You can remove the hard disk with the brackets still attached. Remove one screw securing the flexible printed cable and the four screws holding the hard disk assembly and the PSU board. Remove the hard disk connectors forwards and lift out the assembly. Some screws are fitted beyond the reach of your fingers. A slightly magnetised screwdriver helps when reassembling.

The cooling is directed through the PSU by plastic baffles. The fan sucks rather than blows. Cold air enters via ventillation holes in the sides of the case near the front and warm air exits via the fan in the rear panel. The case remains fairly cool. In my opinion there should be no problem with stacked units. They look like they are designed to be stacked. But it is important to ensure that the ventilation holes in the sides of the case are not blocked in any way. I would allow at least one inch clearance between the sides and any other objects.

Many thanks to Leslie Rushforth for the original repair information.

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STRT-G6153 datasheet

There are two main modifications to be made. Let us compare. It is easy enough to short the external resistor and put pin 2 to gnd. Ignoring pin numbers and just attending to their function we have one which has disappeared which is the external current sense resistor and a new one which has appeared as the one supply pin in STRT-G has split into two in the FSDMRB which are startup pin 6 and Vcc pin 3. I am including a generic schematic of how I would convert the circuit from one to the other. Please note that I have not tried this yet so it is merely a tentative idea which I believe might work if I have not overlooked anything important. Also please note that this is a generic circuit and each individual circuit might have its own considerations.

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STRG6353(STR-G6353)

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